Domaine Hoffmann-Jayer
While the Hoffmann-Jayer name is relatively new to the Bourgogne region, it signifies the change, both in name and in style, from the Jayer-Gilles estate founded in the 1950s. In 2017 the domaine was purchased by André Hoffmann, a Swiss businessman whose grandfather founded Roche pharmaceuticals, and whose father Luc co-founded the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), and André set out to improve farming practices, and refine cellar practices in the pursuit of purity and balance. The old regime’s wines had a small cult following, though for many they often showed a strong hand with new oak, extraction and density.
We met current winemaker Alexandre Vernet in early 2018 when this domaine was still known as Domaine Jayer-Gilles. We enjoyed his company, and the tasting, and asterisked them as a potential contact for the future. The passing of the owner and winemaker Gilles Jayer (who's father Robert was the cousin of Burgundy Godfather Henri Jayer) in mid-2018, saw his apprentice Alexandre step into the lead role as vigneron and winemaker. Alexandre is a dynamic young native of the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (who previously worked with Philippe Germain in Meursault and Emmanuel Olivier in Gevrey-Chambertin) and under his watch the wines have become fresher, more lifted, and truly showcase their individual terroir.
The domaine is located in the village of Magny-lès-Villers, at the junction of the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune and the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, and encompasses ten hectares spread across a wide range of appellations. Alexandre and his team treat each parcel with equal diligence both in the vineyard and in the cellar, employing hand-harvesting across the board and eschewing the use of chemical herbicides and pesticides; the domaine is in the process of organic certification, and Alexandre is also beginning to experiment with biodynamics.
Following a ten-day cold maceration, fermentations proceed spontaneously in cement, which stabilises and maintains temperature far better than stainless steel. Alexandre employs a judiciously considered variety of ageing vessels - classic 228-litre barrels, but also larger 350-litre barrels, terracotta jars, and glass containers - to allow for maximum expressiveness from each cuvée. All wines, even the less prestigious appellations, spend two full winters in the cellar before bottling. This allows their inherent structure to emerge more fully and prevents the need for filtration, as the wines settle naturally over their 16-18 months of elevage. Total sulphur additions are extremely modest, and are never applied before malolactic fermentation is complete. These are wines which are deftly balanced, well structured and with energetic fruit.
Wines Imported
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The grapes producing this Bourgogne Aligoté are grown in the commune of Magny-lès-Villers, on vines with an average age of 70 years. Bright, clear, and golden in colour, with aromas of nuts and yellow flesh fruits. Despite seeing no wood, this is full, round and generous with a good weight and a smooth ripe structure. Delicious with vegetable starters, salad or shellfish. Also a good choice with creamy fresh cheese.
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2020 Domaine Hoffmann-Jayer Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune
A blend of 70% Chardonnay (55yo vines) and 30% Pinot Blanc (55yo vines), from a 1ha plot at an altitude of 345m, grown in silty clay with plenty of limestone. Alexandre ages this in a blend of two-thirds new 350-litre barrels and one-third terracotta jar before assembling it for six months prior to bottling. Bright, clear gold in colour, with an aroma of nuts, and notes of bee's wax after several years in bottle. The palate is round, full and generous with balanced weight and an attractive mouth-feel. Some ripeness and fine acidity on the finish. Cellar up to 10 years.
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Made from 1ha of 60 yo vines with SE exposure at an average altitude of 385m, grown in soil of chalky clay, often from muddy limestones, with slopes covered by a limestone scree. De-stemmed then aged for 18 months; two-thirds in oak (20% new) and one-third in terracotta.
This wine is a brilliant ruby red colour, with an aroma of crisp, fresh red fruits with a chalky note. The palate is fresh, with medium weight and a smooth, subtle finish. Cellar 5-8yrs.
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This wine comprises a significant portion of Hoffmann-Jayer’s production, coming from 2.4 hectares of vines planted in several plots nearby to the domaine in Magny-les-Villers. These 50-year-old vines produce a wine that’s more savoury and earth-tinged than its Hautes-Côtes de Beaune counterpart, although the ageing process is identical: two-thirds in oak (20% new) and one-third in terracotta. This wine is again brilliant ruby red in colour with aromas of ripe forest fruits and a hint of chalkiness. It is full, rounded and generous on the palate with good weight and a smooth ripe structure. Quite a long finish. Cellar 5-8yrs.
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Côte de Nuits Villages comes from 50yo vines in the commune of Corgoloin on three different plots: 'En Fontenelle', 'Le Clos de Magny' and 'La Montagne', total of 1.3ha, at an altitude of 330m, on a S/SE facing slope of brown clay soil, with some limestone.
This Côte de Nuits Villages is aged entirely in 228-litre barrels, one-third of which are new, and Alexandre’s preference for low-toast wood allows the fruit to shine through beautifully. Juicy, red fruits, fresh tannins, and a wonderful sense of structure.
Cellar 10-15yrs.
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