Hautes-Côtes Highlight on the way

While the Hoffmann-Jayer name is relatively new to the Bourgogne region, it signifies the change, both in name and in style, from the Jayer-Gilles estate founded in the 1950’s. In 2017 the domaine was purchased by André Hoffmann, a Swiss businessman whose grandfather founded Roche pharmaceuticals, and whose father Luc co-founded the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), and André set out to improve farming practices, and refine cellar practices in the pursuit of purity and balance. The old regime’s wines had a small cult following, though for many they often showed a strong hand with new oak, extraction, and density.

We met current winemaker Alexandre Vernet in early 2018 when this domaine was still known as Domaine Jayer-Gilles. We enjoyed his company, and the tasting, and asterisked them as a potential contact for the future. The passing of the owner and winemaker Gilles Jayer (who's father Robert was the cousin of Burgundy Godfather Henri Jayer) in mid-2018, saw his apprentice Alexandre step into the lead role as vigneron and winemaker. Alexandre is a dynamic young native of the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (who previously worked with Philippe Germain in Meursault and Emmanuel Olivier in Gevrey-Chambertin) and under his watch the wines have become fresher, more lifted, and truly showcase their individual terroir.

The domaine is located in the village of Magny-lès-Villers, at the junction of the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune and the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, and encompasses ten hectares spread across a wide range of appellations. Alexandre and his team treat each parcel with equal diligence both in the vineyard and in the cellar, employing hand-harvesting across the board and eschewing the use of chemical herbicides and pesticides; the domaine is in the process of organic certification, and Alexandre is beginning to experiment with biodynamics as well.

Following a ten-day cold maceration, fermentations proceed spontaneously in cement, which stabilises and maintains temperature far better than stainless steel. Alexandre employs a judiciously considered variety of ageing vessels - classic 228-litre barrels, but also larger 350-litre barrels, terracotta jars, and glass containers - to allow for maximum expressiveness from each cuvée. All wines, even the less prestigious appellations, spend two full winters in the cellar before bottling. This allows their inherent structure to emerge more fully and prevents the need for filtration, as the wines settle naturally over their 16-18 months of elevage. Total sulphur additions are extremely modest, and are never applied before malolactic fermentation is complete. These are wines which are deftly balanced, well structured, with energetic fruit.

Alexandre Vernet